American Craft Distilling
Distilling in America can trace its roots back to the 1600s when Europeans landed with a longing to set up farms on newly (ahem) acquired fertile land. Corn and sugar cane were new crops to many of these settlers and it was not long before they began plantations for commercial purposes. Sometimes a bumper harvest would come along and farmers were left with an excess. Some settlers from Scotland, Ireland and Wales brought with them a knowledge of distilling and they quickly adapted their old recipes to include the new crops. Curiously it was not whiskey, but rum that became the first American spirit. It was not until the abolition of slavery that whiskey began to take over to become a spirit consumed in large amounts. Since then there have been plenty of ups and downs and the industry came close to being wiped out by the prohibition movement.
Fast forward and whiskey is still the big spirit in the States. Up until the 1980’s this was, however, almost entirely done in large commercial distilleries. Then small scale ‘craft’ distilleries started cropping up. To begin with many of these were not interested in whiskey, but were centred on the wine and fruit growing areas. The St George Distillery in Alameda, California started off making fruit eau de vie whilst Hubert Germain-Robin started off making brandy from local grapes. In time the new breed of distillers started to experiment and make white spirits such as vodka and gin but also some unique whiskeys and rums. The craft scene is now so important that big companies have even started investing in some of their competitors.
Small scale distilling has had a few interesting stories to tell recently. A high profile
feud between the founder and investors at the Balcones Distillery, Texas read somewhat like a soap opera. Whilst in California there have been a number of
law suits over whiskeys and vodka claiming to be ‘hand made’. Most of the attention, however, is for good reasons. A new wave of enthusiasts at distilleries are creating truly exciting spirits, with an emphasis on experimentation and innovation.
Here are some of our favourites:
House Spirits are a small production outfit situated on what has become known ‘Distillery Row’ in Portland Oregon. They make everything from Aquavit to Whiskey but it is their gin that has attracted the most attention. Aviation is very typical of the new wave of American gins. It is pungent and spicy with a pronounced flavour that will shine through very well in cocktails. Maybe not the best for a G&T (unless you want the gin flavour to really stand out above the tonic). As the name may suggests this works great in an Aviation cocktail but also makes an outstanding Negroni.
Full marks to Leopold Bros who malt their barley, mill their grains, ferment, mash and distil all on the same site. If anyone can claim their gin to be ‘hand made’ then it can be them. Their gin is less pungent than many American brands, but is impeccably designed and made. Their unique process involves distilling the botanicals separately, meaning they can blend the final spirit and flavours exactly to their liking. This has plenty of classic ‘London Dry Gin’ character but is so smooth that it can be served up straight on a little ice. We prefer it in a gin and tonic where it makes a really well balanced drink.
In 2007 Highwest became the first legal distillery in Utah since 1870. Their vodka takes its name from the altitude on the distillery and salon in which it is made. This is made solely from local oats and is distilled in batches in a small copper pot still. Smooth with a distinct oat flavour and a very big mouthfeel. Try it straight from the freezer.
Rye is the buzz word in American distilling right now. There are some great emerging rye whiskeys to be found, just be aware that a lot of these are very similar as most come from the same distillery in Indiana! Tuthilltown Distillery make their Manhattan Rye in Gardiner, NY. They source their rye within a 10 mile radius and distil in small batches with hand bottling and finishing all being done on site. This makes a great Manhattan cocktail but is also great on its own, where the minty, prickly rye flavour really shines through.
